Instructions for assembling a Safe door, valuables room door, weapon room door, armory door

We differentiate between two different types of fastening:

A

Setting the door frame in concrete

These instructions apply to our “Gera” safe door.

As a rule, the manufacturer of the door system provides installation instructions upon delivery. This is part of the certification and must therefore be observed during installation!

In addition, technical expertise from the construction industry is required.

Wall anchors are welded to the door frame and must be bent open.

The door is then set up and aligned plumb and level.

It is essential to ensure that the door frame is sufficiently stiffened both vertically and horizontally, as without stiffening the door frame would narrow as the concrete is pounded, which would mean that the safe door would no longer be able to be closed.

Only then should the surrounding formwork be installed.

The concrete is always poured with the door open. This must be secured with suitable measures to prevent accidents.

The properly produced concrete must then be compacted (vibrated) in a suitable form. After sufficient drying time, the formwork is removed.

In any case, we recommend consulting experienced specialists.

These instructions are recommendations; we expressly accept no liability at this point, especially in the event of incorrect installation and subsequent malfunctions.

B

Screwing the door frame

These instructions apply to our “CITY” safe door.

Screwing together a door frame is usually a simple undertaking that can also be carried out by DIY enthusiasts with basic craftsmanship skills.

The main principle: a screw connection is only as strong as the surrounding building material (i.e. your wall) can provide. So first check whether the enclosed fastening material is suitable for your wall and, if necessary, get anchoring material that is more suitable for your wall.

You can find help at specialist retailers, e.g. at HILTI or Würth.

Unhooking the door often makes installation easier. However, this option depends on the type of installation and door opening direction; in some cases it is not possible to unhook the door. For flat transition rails, recesses may need to be made in the floor area of ​​the room in advance.

There are three conceivable types of mounting:

- when installed from outside in front of the wall:

Impact plugs are included here, which you first screw into the welded threaded sleeves. Now place the door frame from the outside in front of the wall and align it. Then give the door frame a blow with a rubber hammer at each of the positions of the striking plugs in order to get an impression of the firing pin in the plaster. Remove the door frame and drill completely through the wall at the marked points. Screw the threaded rods into the threaded sleeves and now put the door frame up again and guide the threaded rods through the wall holes. Now carefully align the door plumb and level* and fix the frame firmly and secure the threaded rods from the room side with washers and nuts. Screw locking is better than over-tightening the nuts, which can cause the frame to warp.

- for installation situations in wall passages:

Open the door. Now carefully align the door plumb and level* and fix the frame firmly. Now drill into the masonry through the existing holes in the frame. Clean the drill hole and insert the appropriate anchoring material according to the manufacturer's instructions and screw the connections tight, but do not overtighten.

- when installing from the side of the room against the wall:

Open the door. Now carefully align the door plumb and level* and fix the frame firmly. Now drill into the masonry through the existing holes in the frame. Clean the drill hole and insert the appropriate anchoring material according to the manufacturer's instructions and screw the connections tight, but do not overtighten.

* Door and frame are precisely tailored to each other at the factory. If you take particular care when aligning, if the alignment is not correct, the door frame can become distorted, meaning that the bolt pockets in the frame have to be reworked, without which the door cannot close cleanly.

We assume no liability for accuracy of fit or necessary rework in the event of warped frames due to poor alignment.

Depending on the situation, you can now plaster the frame, seal it with permanently elastic sealant and carry out the final painting work.

These instructions are recommendations; we expressly accept no liability at this point, especially in the event of incorrect installation and subsequent malfunctions.

Fixing a safe door from the outside with threaded rods

Safe room door screwed through the wall from the outside. Fastening is done using threaded rods, which are fastened from the room side with washers and nuts.

Safe room door fixed from the room side

Safe room door screwed to wall through the frame from the room side.

Safe room door frame while mounting

Customer photo during installation